Which Hotel Would Darwin Choose?

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April 14^th - 20^th

^{Galapagos Islands – Santa Cruz and Isabella}

     Charles Darwin was in his early twenties in 1831 when he set out on his voyage in the Beagle, and returned some five years later.  Only 24 years later did he publish “On the Origin of the Species”, and even that was somewhat rushed for him.  It is difficult to imagine now how it could take so long to synthesize the observations and ongoing studies, but there is something very comforting in the notion that he was able to go through his investigations and thought processes without being pressured  for the sake of commercial gain.  

     We crossed Darwin’s trail in the Galapagos, albeit with the comfort of hotels to stay in, cameras and notebooks to record some of what we saw, and experienced guides to inform us on more details than we can possibly remember about the biology, geology and social history of these islands.  I certainly left in even greater awe of what he and others were able to accomplish.  While we felt a certain sense of personal discovery whilst being here, it is truly remarkable to get a more intimate understanding and appreciation of the world in which real discovery and intelligent thinking took place.

     We had originally planned to visit the islands in early June when the weather is a little cooler, and after more research about different ways to travel here.  Circumstances changed however.  We woke up a week ago not quite sure about our plans.  By the end of the day we had booked flights and a hotel, and by 6:00 a.m. on Sunday morning, we were on our way to Quito airport for the flight to Baltra Island.  Cruises are the most touted way to see the Galapagos.  In the event, we spent six nights here – three in the main town of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, and then three more on Isabella.  Each day provided opportunities for day trips to other locations and activities, and it did prove to be considerably cheaper than cruising. While I was left gazing wistfully at some of the cruise boats, wondering what we might have missed, such thoughts were quickly labeled as petty when lined up against all that we did experience.  As the reader can tell, we are not taking twenty-five years to consider the experiences before publishing, but then we have little to offer in the way of ground-breaking scientific theory – merely the reflections of privileged travelers.    

      So what did we see?   Lava – a lotta lava.  Yes, there are a lot of animals too – many of them tourists, but it is the lava that has made the most indelible impression on me.  OK, so swimming alongside a turtle was pretty darn cool too – perhaps one of the coolest minutes of my life, but I have seen Finding Nemo, and so had some idea of what to expect.  The lava fields and the life associated with them were really not too much on my radar, other than the knowledge that these islands are volcanic in origin.

Hawks overlook Bartolome - one of the 'newest' islands

Looking across to Bartolome from Jaime Island

Nan on Las Tintoras Lava Field

 

     No doubt some readers are more than partially educated on vulcanology.  In recent months, we have experienced the form of the Andes, marveled at the scale of the caldera of Quilotoa, while the great hulks of Imbabura and Cotocachi have been a constant presence over our home near Otavalo.  But these are much older volcanoes. The Galapagos islands are much newer, especially the ones on the western edge where there are several active volcanoes, though not immediately so in our presence.  Most amazing to me is the stunning variety of color and form of the lava flows, qualities dependent of the mineral content, the rate of cooling, and the age of the lava. 

Where tourists, locals and the animals meet - Fish market on Isabella

     Biogeographic diversity, endemic species, mantle plumes, species vulnerability…. There is a lot of science to learn about right here. I don’t think Emma yet fully appreciates the scope of what she has to digest for her upcoming ‘report’ that she will compile, but she did comment yesterday on the value of being able to write about things she has actually seen rather than simply reading about or watching on electronic media.  It is difficult to pin down the real difference between first-hand experience and simply reading or watching somebody else’s account.  We can learn at least as much in the way of facts and understanding without actually traveling.  Our pictures pale in comparison to those of expert photographers, and one can argue that our money could be better spent elsewhere.  It is the multi-sensual experience that is so rewarding however – something that pictures and words can only convey occasionally.  To breathe the air, to hear distant calls from the birds, and to feel the clammy sweat of the midday climate is to become, even if only for a brief period, part of the lifeblood of new worlds.

Female (I think) Lava Lizzard

Marine Iguana

A cool dude - don't know what it is yet.

Land Iguana

Look carefully at what Emma sees

     One aspect of being here that Darwin did not witness too much is the presence of so many tourists.  Having spent much time in recent months with Ecuadorians, it was something of a minor shock to be back in the world of (mostly) white camera-carrying companions.  Biogeographic diversity can be used to describe us as much as the life that we have all come to see.  We met people from the US, Germany, Canada, South Africa, Australia, Argentina, Spain, Britain…. and a few more from Germany.  We all had to be shepherded by the local guides, many of whom were born on the islands.  Almost everybody was friendly, and we engage in the travel banter that mostly typifies such brief encounters.  I learned about fish management in Idaho while trekking across a lava field here, agricultural project management from Chicago, and education in both South Africa and Nepal. Each new conversation adds to the richness of understanding about the World.

    On our last night , after we had packed in preparation for a pre-dawn departure from Isabella, I wandered along the beach to a pier which had a very friendly looking two-story shack on the end, some colored lights, and the word ‘Bar’ in hopefully large letters on the front. With the South-Pacific waves crashing on the beach and stars twinkling, it all seemed tailor-made to represent a cliché.  Walking up to the bar, I was greeted by Dorothy, an older Canadian woman who has fallen in love with Isabella, and with whom we had spent much of the day on a day trip.   

     Also present were a pair of twins plus one husband from Virginia whom we had seen almost every day since arriving six days before – a mutual fixture of our visit. Yet, in the way that such social interactions move, I spent most of my brief time there talking with Joseph, a resident of the island who now helps to manage tour groups here.  He left his home on Mainland Ecuador when he was twelve, and came to Isabella with no immediate family, but simply with a desire make a new life for himself here.  He talked about the gender problem for men of his age here (early thirties I think) – about four times as many men as women.  In his job, he meets many tourists, most of whom pass through in just a few days with little chance of building long-term friendships. He seemed both wistful for a more fulfilling social (love?) life, yet also deeply in love with the island. 

     As one might expect, the Galapagos have many stories to reveal about the past and present while leaving us to determine what we can do about the future – if we have the wisdom to learn from what we see.