Two Days in Cuenca

February 25^th & 26^th

 

     The old city of Cuenca is a tourist dream – quaint, cobblestone streets, an outdoor café culture, a colonial church seemingly on every corner, bustling markets, and an ever-changing array of architecture to admire. Granted, there are diesel fumes from the buses to contend with, and some streets on which drivers compete with each other as if at the Monaco Grand Prix, but for the pedestrian with time to amble, Cuenca offers a visual feast of outstanding interest.

Emma prepares for her history research.

     Aside from the churches, most of the buildings are just two or three stories high, each façade in either or classic colonial form, or a somewhat more modern deco style, most in a reasonably good condition with multicolored motifs and balconies frequently garlanded with flowers. There is much more evidence of wealth in this town, brought about partly no doubt by the presence of so many North American and European retirees who have chosen to live here.  Sure enough, we came across several during our visit, especially sitting outside at our breakfast stop, the Coffee Tree café.

     It is difficult to understand the economics of how so many churches can exist in such a small area.  On our last morning I had to find a cash machine to pay for the hotel.  In just a 500 yard circuit, I stopped in briefly to four different churches, all Catholic, each holding a morning mass with just a dozen or so people attending.  In one, the heavenly choir sang courtesy of a CD in a boombox, while in another, it seemed that each member of the small congregation chose to sit as far away from each other as possible, seeking their own space of isolation in which to practice their spiritual moment.

     I do not visit churches for their intended purpose, but am always fascinated by their architecture and artistry.  Most were in reasonable repair, some much more elaborate than others, and each boasting their own stylistic identity. The more modern cathedral, as vast as most I have seen in the UK boasted an oversize statue of Pope Juan Pablo II, and a purple lighting effect over the main altar more akin to a rock concert. The other churches while smaller of course, each displayed wonderful collections of artwork worth much more attention than the few minutes we spent there.

     The city boasts several museums, though we visited just three, one of which, disappointingly for us, was mostly closed due to renovation.  The Museo de las Culturas Aborigenes is an immensely rewarding place to visit, even if, like us, one has only a rudimentary knowledge of history, archeology and anthropology.  This huge private collection of artifacts begins with a selection of fossils and ancient tools through to the relatively modern pottery, beadwork and metal work of the Incas.  The artistry of much of the ceramic work, all from what is now Ecuador, reveals multiple societies over thousands of years with very sophisticated techniques and expression.  Most impressive of all is the ability to get close enough to the work to see it in detail, though we resisted the urge to pick up and handle the pieces. Somewhat more bizarre was the experience of walking through the last gallery while listening to a muzak version of White Christmas played quietly over the PA.

We also visited the Museum of Modern Art on the north side of town that appeared to be housed in a converted monastery, a refreshing change from the great civic galleries one finds in larger cities.  The museum exhibited an extensive retrospective of 50 years worth of work by Nelson Roman, an Ecuadorian artist. We unwittingly found ourselves going back in time through his work.  With no guidebook, we were left to make our own assessments and interpretations – all for the best perhaps.

     Our most significant discovery, of sorts,  proved to be the Café Molienda, a small Columbian restaurant we read about online that just happened to be three minutes walk from our hotel.  Not only was the food fabulously delicious, but it was all gluten-free. It is unpretentious, friendly, and absurdly cheap - $15.00 to feed the three of us, including a shot of something pretty strong to wash down the meal.  It was so good, we went for breakfast the next morning, and then, at Emma’s insistence, back again for dinner the next evening. A mariachi band came in to give us an amusingly corny touristy moment, but if ever you are here, this is worth looking up. 

Street Art - Hard to avoid.

     We returned to Quito the next day, enduring nine and a half hours on the bus, but with no sincere complaints. With books to read, Spanish to learn, the Avenue of the Volcanoes to admire, and three consecutive Die Hard movies to watch, there was little reason to get bored.